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2003 Ford Mustang  with  interior

cobra, mustang, ford, race car, supercharged, camaro, corvette, svt, shelby

This Ford Mustang for sale has been viewed times.

Car make & model: Ford Mustang
Year: 2003
Exterior color: Condition:
Interior color: Engine: L & M BUILT
Transmission: Manual Mileage:
Drivetrain: Fuel Type:
Airbags: Warranty: Vehicle has an existing warranty
Extended Warranty Quote
VIN# 1FAFP48Y93F422136
Vehicle History Report
Price: $24,000
Shipping: Auto Transport Quote

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2003 Full Built Mustang CobraMy loss is your gain! I have to sell due to a business investment gone bad. It breaks my heart since having this car has always been a dream of mine. I have only put break in miles into the car and just had the oil changed from the break in.
This car has a 2.3 Whipple with a brand new built L and M engine. Good for up to 1500hp. You can call Michael the owner of L and M to verify (215) 675-8485
Body is in great shape for being 15 years old. Few small scuffs and scratches.
At moment car is set up for Open Track with a full Maximum Motorsport suspension, full length sub frame connectors, Coilovers etc. All support mods from electrical, plumbing and mechanical. I stopped short on brake upgrade and cage. Tuned down to 600 whp and torque. Mods are too many to list, well over $50k of work invested, see below with some details.
Car has a clear title in hand, never been wrecked or in any fender bender of any sort. Body and interior is about 8.5 out of 10. No rips or tears, just worn driver's seat and a couple holes in the driver's side pillar where I had the gauges moved. Has a bluetooth system with a sub and amp. I put some wrap on it, hood, top and trunk top, but that can be taken off easily.39k miles and change.
Here are the mods, I'm sure I'm leaving out some stuff. The only two mods I didn't have installed because I ran out of money was upgraded brakes and roll bar/cage.
Engine Build:Aluminum BlockWork performed by L and M Engines: Race ApplicationDisassemble Ford Modular Long Block - Heads to oil pan, less manifolds, brackets, etcDegrease block, crank, rods, oil pan, misc partsDegrease & Inspect - Timing cover, rear seal housing, timing chains, guides, tensioners, rockers, lifters, all valvetrain parts, long block hardwareMeasure Main Bearing Bores and AlignmentAlign Hone Aluminum block w/Steel main caps - Currently at max #1 overMachine block deck surfaces. #8 sleeve low, head gasket leakingMeasure Crankshaft Rod, Main Journals and BendHone V-8 cylinders with stress plateWash block for assembly and plugsRemove/install piston on rod w/locksBalance V-8, InternalPolish CrankshaftWash crankshaft for assemblyFile End Gaps - 16 Piston RingsInstall bearings, measure main & rod clearances, selective fit bearings for proper oil clearance.Assemble Ford Modular short block, review all dimensions & clearancesFord Modular Used Block LaborCobra 4340 Forged Steel CrankshaftMachine main bearings for crank radius clearanceL&M/Diamond Custom Pistons W/.300 Thick Domes, Ceramic Coated, .300 Down Ring, Teflon Coated .130" Skirts, Tool Steel PinsTotal Seal AP Steel RingsManley Pro I Beam Billet Rods - SinglesKing Rod Bearings XPN SeriesKing Main Bearings HP SeriesParts For Short Block W/L&M Diamond Pistons and Manley I Beam RodsRecondition Ford 4V Modular GT 500 cylinder headsReplace guides in 32V heads and diamond hone to fitValve GuidesAssemble Ford Modular short block to long block configuration. Short block, heads, timing, oil pump, pan Ford Modular rear main seal & slingerGT500 oil pan gasket/windage trayModular Ford head gasketFord Modular 7mm valve seal/spring seat Late HeadsModular 4V Convert Short Block to Long Block - SubtotalDegree cams in 4V Modular engine4V Modular Ford steel adjustable cam sprockets4V Modular adjustable secondary sprockets, left and right banks
Reconditioning work by shop will be sent upon request.All new plumbing and electrical, vac and oil lines etc.Custom Intake manifoldCustom Box for MAFCustom Oil Separators and coolersAll new gaskets.Expanded oil lines from 8 lines to 10 linesAll new belts, tensioners and pulleys.Oil panClutch cableI have receipts for all the parts replaced.
Below is some more major parts.>60lb. injectors>KB BAP>SCT 2800 maf>LFP Heat Exchanger>PFAB resevoir>New 2.3 WHIPPLE>Metco X-10 Rib Ultra Grip setup>Xcal 2 tuner with a street tune>MAC Longtubes>MAC Prochamber>Pypes catback with Magnaflow custom mufflers>GT500 L and M Valve Covers
>Liberty Spline 26 Input shaft>Fandanza flywheel>DFX clutch>MGW Shifter>DSS Level 5 Halfshafts>DSS IRS Brace>Steeda Quad Firewall Adjuster>New clutch cable
>maximum motorsports K-Frame>maximum motorsports 3 bolt bumpsteer kit>maximum motorsports race prep bushings>maximum motorsports full length sub frame connectors>maximum motorsports coilovers>maximum motorsports caster camber plates>slotted rotors/painted calipers>green brake pads
The car went for emissions here in Seattle and failed because they couldn't get a read. This was due to the battery being disconnected and needing to go through a run cycle. I haven't ran it through a run cycle. Also, I suspect I have a small draw somewhere so someone will have to hook it up and find out where it's coming from. It holds a full battery charge for a few days, but will gradually go low. It could be alternator. As I mentioned I just don't have the money. It has a great driving tune that is super safe on 91 octane. It has a small belt chirp at startup that goes away after a minute or two. The trunk panel on driver's side is missing, why I have no idea other than the prior owner took it out to get some wiring done. However, the car has been gone through inch by inch rewiring and replumbing everything. Currently the rear tires are Hoosier slicks and are not DOT rated so they are good for going to a track but not long distance driving or wet weather.I was second owner and bought the car in 2005 with 3k miles on it and then sold it in 08 to a guy who immediately traded it in on a newer GT mustang. The dealer then sold it to a guy in the navy, whom I found out about and when he put it for sale contacted him and bought it back. It's a great romantic story, but I lost my ass on a business deal and have no other choice but to sell this and pay off debt from it. I literally am losing close to $50k. I bought the car back for $28k, the shop blew the engine on the dyno. I sent the engine to L & M and had it completely rebuilt into a race motor. While it was out of the car, I had literally everything replaced in the car. So it is better than brand new. I had the motor tuned down to a safe 600hp on pump gas. If I were to have kept it, I would have had the shop put racing brakes in it, get a roll bar or cage installed. Maybe tune it a bit more aggressively and get the emissions taken care of so I can drive it around. A couple small issues with a draw and get the A/C charged. As it sits it will start up immediately and haul ass anywhere you go without an issue.
>UPR Aluminum Interior dress up kit>In dash A/F guage and Boost gauge>Fuel and Air flow temp gauges
Here is a start up video with a couple revs. motor has around 1k break in miles on a walk around video: https://youtu.be/yEgaxanoLPQ

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