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Update for you, the Cad-T-Bird is running pretty good now and if the seat belt was re-certifiedI think it would be ready to go down the track. I even got the hood back on so it is a complete car again. I also applied for a Washington collector's plate that is coming in the mail. I had some request for interior photos so I uploaded a few more. Check out my youtube under tedinolympia for video of it running today. CAR IS LOCATED IN OLYMPIA WA This is a 1987 T-bird drag car that still has a title and by theory still street legal. I just put the engine back together and it has been driven only a couple of times just in and out of the shop. Rebuilt short block done at local machine shop to my specs with maybe 30 minutes of run time. I'm just not into this hobby anymore and would like to find it a good home. $500 non refundable deposit with PayPal within 24 hours, remainder in cash at time of pick-up. Pick-up must be done in 7 days or will be put up for sale again. Cash only, sold at location only, buyer or buyer's agent must must pick up in person. Race cars are tricky to run for non-experience users and I'm not sure if a trucker will load it since it takes a while to warm up without a choke.
Also for sale local and subject to prior sale. It is track legal down to 9.99 and my best time to date was 11.45, since then I added the bigger roller cam and I would expect the time to be improved. The seat belt is out of tech and need to be re certified or replaced. And you will need an approved jacket if you plan to run with the nitrous.
This is from memory and may not be complete. I learned a lot on this car and had a lot of fun. This car is not junk and is very nice and tight to drive. If you really do not the T-bird look you can move all the parts to a Mustang but in my opinion it would be a shame. I had zero problems with tech at the track.
MTS Intake Mighty Demon 850 Carb Roller Rockers Roller Lifters Cam; 248@.050 both intake and exhaust Cloyes Timing Chain and Cam anti walk button 2.19/1.84 valve with correct double springs for roller cam. Home ported heads with a couple more hours done at the shop. Forged pistons from MTS with 10 to one compression H-beam rods 094 crank Head studs Cooper head gaskets Nitrous Works kit with separate 1 gallon fuel cell and lots of jets sizes 10 inch Torque Convertor, about 3,000 stall, TH400 Cheetah Shifter, very cool and smooth 8 point roll cage. 10 gallon fuel cell Sealed battery box Sealed Rear seat area (no rear seat) 1.75 Header and 3 inch exhaust ending at rear axle 4 wheel disc brakes - non power 8.8 inch rear with 31 spline aftermarket axles, 3.55 gears, truck posi, and aftermarket rear cover Long wheel studs (still 4 lug) Open wheel nuts Aftermarket fuel lines Racing seats with 5 point belt on driver's side Coil over 10 way adjustable shocks on front with Team-Z tubular front k-member Team-Z rear anti-roll bar New manual steering R&P Frame connectors and welded seams for upper and lower control arms Rear tubular upper and lower control arms New aluminum radiator , double fan but one quit working. MSD 6 digital with MSD distributor/wires MTS pulleys 10si alternator 95amp Racing front tires mounted on Ford Spare tire wheels and nittos (down in life) in the rear (shown in picture) Also have stock type front tires mounted on welds, and 10.5x28 slicks on 10 inch welds
You can see some runs and information on youtube tedinolympia